from Iniezione, Northwest AROC,
reprinted in i Saluti, February 1999

Tips on Buying an Alfa

by Wes Ingram
Tip #0: Never buy a car named Cat Daddy

“You cannot pay enough for a good Alfa." Keith Martin once wrote that, and I agree with him. A good example would, of course, have to have correct mechanicals and recent restoration, or be a car with low mileage. Is $10,000 too much to pay for an older Alfa? I don’t think it is but it would have to be in pretty good overall condition. With a little experience one can evalute the cosmetics and be assured that you know what you are getting. But hidden mechanical problems can be difficult to find without professional help. The following tips may help you the next time you decide to buy a vintage Alfa.

Records and History

Impeccable records and owner history are good starting points. But knowing what to look for before, during, and after a road test can make the difference between buying and walking away from a car.

What to Look For

It’s a good idea to look things over before starting the engine. Start your evaluation by checking under the car, but you don’t have to crawl under it, let gravity do it for you. Roll the car back one car length and check for fluids on the ground where the car has been parked. Everyone knows what engine oil looks like, because we usually step in it as we walk from the parking lot to the grocery store.

Static versus Dynamic Leaks

Static leaks usually continue after the car comes to a rest and are the easiest to spot.

Cooling System

If the car has a coolant reservoir, check the level. It should be no more than 1/2 full. If the reservoir has little or no coolant, look for signs of leaking. Hoses should be firm but not hard, with no bulges or soft areas. Leaks around the radiator tank will appear as green residue. Any sign of coolant outside the radiator is cause for concern.

Clean Engines

Clean engines are really nice and they enhance the evaluation process. Leaks are easier to spot after the road test. If you decide to have a professional evaluation before buying the car, the technician will also appreciate the clean engine!

Long-term Storage

The effects of long-term storage can be devastating. Question the seller. Gasoline evaporates leaving a shellac-like residue throughout the fuel system. Piston rings can seize to the cylinder walls. Rubber parts can deteriorate and brake parts can rust and seize from the moisture-laden brake fluid. So, how long is too long? The quality of the storage is very important. But anything over two years, even in a dry environment, would cause me to lose interest.

Most Alfas and other older sports cars leak a little oil. A few drops, no problem; no oil leaks, suspect something.

Starting the Engine

Assuming that the engine is cold, turn the key to the first position. If it is a SPICA-powered car the fuel light should come on then go out instantly. Crank the engine without touching the throttle, It should start with only a few revolutions. Carburated cars require choking or simply depressing the accelerator two times. Depress the accelerator slightly and start the engine.

Oil Pressure

The cold oil pressure should be very high, from 75 to 90 psi. Make a note of the reading. I have found the Alfa oil gauge to be somewhat unreliable, After a brief warmup, you can proceed with your test drive.

Clutch and Transmission

The clutch should engage about 1/4 to 1/2 the way out. If it engages near the end of the pedal travel, the clutch disk may be badly worn and will most likely slip when you shift into fourth or fifth. Alfa second gear synchros are usually worn. If the seller is claiming a freshly rebuilt transmission then it should not grind when warmed up. When the running gear is cold, you must be patient when shifting into second gear, but if grinding persists, the synchro is worn. With the exception of reverse gear, the transmission should be relatively quiet.

The Road Test

Alfas were built to be driven, so don’t hesitate to run the tach above 5000 rpm. By now the engine should be warmed up and the oil pressure should begin to normalize. Coolant temperature should be 170-180 degrees F.

The Engine Test

Glance at the oil pressure when you are at peak revs, and make a mental note of the number. Don’t abuse the car but give it a good workout. If everything is in order the engine shouldn’t overheat. If you can smell oil during deceleration, the valve guides and/or rings may be worn. If you experience this condition you can expect that oil consumption will be high and the car probably smokes. Oil smoke is seldom detected by the driver. If you really want to know whether the car smokes, have a friend follow you. Get the engine hot and decelerate downhill, then accelerate moderately. When this condition is acute, you can smell and almost taste the pungent oil. If the seller touts good compression results yet the above condition exists, beware. The oil rings can be completely worn out even if a compression test yields good results.

Testing the Suspension

Speed bumps are useful in checking out the suspension. There should be no squeaks, groans or cracking sounds from the front suspension. The shocks should allow only one firm rebound after the bump. If the car oscillates after a bump, color the shocks gone. Try forcing the front end to bounce by working the brake pedal while stopping. Performance anti-roll bars may squeak due to the special bushings used to secure them to the chassis.

At a stop sign, try turning the steering wheel. There shouldn’t be any play. If the car pulls a little to one side, try a level area such as a large parking lot. Holding the steering wheel dead center on a flat (no crown) road should keep the car tracking straight ahead.